When in Rome, do as the Romans do - shop

By Tessa Prieto-Valdes
Columnist, Inquirer
Posted date: June 10, 2007

MANILA, Philippines - There's a saying that when one visits the Fontana di Trevi in Rome, one should throw a coin in the fountain to ensure that one will get to visit again. I remember doing so when I first had the chance to visit Rome many years ago and, true enough, I had the chance to return last weekend to attend the canonization of Mother Marie Eugenie, the founder of the Assumption.

That Sunday, June 3, all roads led to Rome, especially for "Assumptionistas" from around the world. For some, the occasion was a great chance to see a bit of Italy on the way to St. Peter's. Some of my adventurous Assumption Batch '81 classmates toured the country driving around in a graphics-covered rental car.

Italy's most famous cities, Rome, Florence and Venice, should be on the itinerary of first-time travelers. And if time permits, the smaller but equally picturesque places, Pisa, Assisi and others, are highly recommended as well.

One of my fondest memories is cruising Venice's Grand Canal on a vaporetto with my husband Dennis. Who can forget the splendor of its quaint mask shops, Murano glass factories and, of course, the inescapably romantic gondolas. For a more in-depth guided tour of Venice, Sandra Palou (e-mail sandie55@virgilio.it), an Assumptionista and art historian, gives day tours of sites around the city far from the usual touristy spots.

Sandra is married to the curator of the Peggy Guggenheim Collection at Palazzo Venier dei Leoni. This history lover accurately shares interesting facts about the different palazzos and her tour includes a store for kids to make their own Venetian masks. And for those Pinays more interested in shopping, she includes a special Murano glass factory that ships all over the world and, more importantly, gives major discounts.

Further south and right in the middle of the Gucci boot-shaped Italian peninsula is Florence, the quintessential Renaissance city. Walking around its neighborhoods reminds one of Michelangelo, Leonardo da Vinci, Raphael, and the other great Italian masters of art and architecture.

Italian Renaissance art does not get any better than at the vast collection housed at Galleria degli Uffizi. Although there are lots of stairs and no captions and signs, the Uffizi has gorgeous paintings, especially two of my favorites, "Birth of Venus" and "Primavera" by Sandro Botticelli.

Arguably the world's most famous sculpture is in Florence, specifically at a museum hardly anyone can name, the Galleria dell' Accademia. That sculpture is the larger-than-life, anatomically correct, perfectly proportioned "David." Tickets to the Galleria can be reserved in advance to avoid the long lines at the entrance. If you are pressed for time, head instead to Piazza della Signoria, Florence's central square, where a copy of Michelangelo's sculpture stands in the spot that the original occupied for centuries.

From centrally located Florence, there are limitless options for places to head to, from the beautiful landscapes of Tuscany to pristinely medieval Assisi to the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa to Italy's most famous wine-producing area, Chianti. It all depends on what your area of interest is and what time trains are running.

For those more interested in shopping, again there are tips that are not in most travel guides. For instance, the Benetton outlet and, more importantly, the Prada shop, are both in this region. For great souvenirs, a nearby flea market sells Florentine marbleized papers designed for stationery, guest books and notepads. Gold-stamped leather wallets and coin purses also make cute gifts.

Since most Assumptionistas were in Italy for the canonization, then most of our side trips also veered to the religious. Exploring Assisi is best done on foot in order to feel the ambience of St. Francis. Assisi has become one of the most important pilgrimage destinations in the Christian world.

I was so moved by the simplicity of St. Francis’ followers that I almost gave up shopping. Of course, as the visit moved closer to Rome, I was tempted once again by the smell of Italian leather, the feel of Italian fashion, and the flavor of Italian wines and cheeses.

The silkiest prosciutto is from Parma, a great example of how a town can become famous for a single product. Nearby, Parmigiano has the crumbliest cheese, Lucca presses the thickest olive oil and Modena makes the tangiest Aceto Balsamico vinegar. No wonder Italian food expert Gaita Fores of Cibo fame frequents these places to source her ingredients.

Before making the final push into Rome, we visited Carpineto, a winery in Tuscany, and met the owner, Antonio Zaccheo. According to my classmate Popsie Gamboa, he will visit the Philippines and is hoping to supply our growing wine-drinking population.

An Italian day begins with coffee. In contrast, a Pinay tourist in Italy starts and begins her day with shopping. My classmates met me at the airport and we headed straight to the Castel Romano outlet. I broke my vow not to shop on the very day I arrived. There was just too much temptation, what with designer products at half-off and tax-exempt discounts.

When in Rome, we surely did as the Romans do. We had gelato, as there are shops in every other corner of every piazza. I could not get over the number of delicious flavors of this creamy Italian ice cream. Between the pasta and cheese, bread soaked in olive oil and balsamic vinegar, and countless bottles of wine, tourists leaving Italy should refrain from weighing themselves.

Next week, I'll write about the canonization of Mother Marie Eugenie. It's not everyday that a saint is made, so this Sunday is just the build-up, the prequel as they say in the movies. Meanwhile, I stop here, secure in the knowledge that I will surely return to Rome again, because I threw in a peso coin when I visited the Fontana di Trevi.

E-mail me at seaprincess@inquirer.com.ph.